RAMPS 1.7
Release status: Prototype
Description | RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.
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Contents
Summary
I am working on developing a RAMPS version that will allow TMC2130 drivers (using SPI) to be used, simply by moving some jumpers.
This is a link to a forums discussion about the board
The board is also meant to be usable with 32-bit processors that use 3V logic, like the Arduino DUE
Sources
Firmware
Very preliminary firmware version of Marlin 1.1.9 (master) for RAMPS_1.7 at GitHub (still uses the 1.4 name and settings, but has 1.7 pin numbers in the pins_RAMPS.h file)
Design files
As soon as I know that the design actually works, all files I have/use will be made available.
So far about the PCB RAMPS 1.7 GitHub repository
Schematics
On this wiki the schematics will be made available as images.
For pdf versions see: Repository at GitHub
Heated Bed circuit
Click picture for larger versions
Link to pdf version on GitHub
"12V" & 5V rails
Click picture for larger versions
Link to pdf version on GitHub
5V on-board power
Click picture for larger versions
Link to pdf version on GitHub
Click picture for larger version
Click picture for larger version
Click picture for larger version
Bill Of Materials
A (partial) list of components that are used for this board.
ID | Description | Quantity | Digikey Part Number (Description) | Other supplier | Notes |
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C1 | Low ESR 100uF/35V | 6 | PCE4554CT-ND | ? | 6.60mm x 6.60mm |
C2 | 10uF/16V | 3 | 399-17336-1-ND | ? | 4.30mm x 4.30mm |
C3 | 1-10uF / 6V / 0805 | 1 | CAP CER 10UF 6.3V X5R 0805 | ebay option | 0805 |
C6 | 100nF / 6V / 0805 | 8 | CAP CER 0.1UF 50V X7R 0805 | ebay option | 0805 |
C7 | 1-10uF / 35V / 0805 | 1 | CAP CER 10UF 35V X5R 0805 | ? | 0805 |
C8 | 10uF/35V | 1 | 732-8503-1-ND | ? | 4.30mm x 4.30mm |
Q3,Q4 | IRLB3034 N-channel mosfet, 2 mili Ohm, 40V |
2 | IRLB3034PBF-ND | ? | TO-220 |
Q3,Q4 Alternative | IRLB8743 N-channel mosfet, 4 mili Ohm, 30V |
2 | IRLB8743PBF-ND | ? | TO-220 |
Q1, Q2 | IRLR7843 N-channel mosfet, 4 milli Ohm, 30V |
2 | IRLR7843PBFCT-ND | ? | TO-252 |
N | AO3400 N-channel mosfet, 33-52 milli Ohm, 30V |
4 | 785-1000-1-ND | ? | SOT-23 |
IC | 74LS125 | 1 | SN74LS125ADR | ebay option | 14-SOIC (0.154", 3.90mm Width) |
IC | 24LC256 | 1 | 24LC256 | ebay option | 8-SOIC (0.154", 3.90mm Width) |
S1 | 4-pin 7.62mm screw terminal | 1 | ?d | ?o | ?n |
S2 | 2-pin 5.08mm screw terminal | 4 | ?d | ?o | ?n |
R1 | 100K 0805 | 10 | Digi option | ebay option | 0805 |
R2 | 10K 0805 | 6 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
R3 | 4K7 0805 | 13 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
R4 | 2K2 0805 | 7 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
R5 | 10R 0805 | 6 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
R6 | 1K 0805 | 1 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
R7 | 680R 0805 | 1 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
E1-3 | Green LED 0805 | 3 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
E4 | Red LED 0805 | 3 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
E5 | Yellow LED 0805 | 1 | ?d | ?o | 0805 |
D2 | diode 1N5822 TH | 1 | 1N5822G | ebay options | Any 3-10A diode will do fine |
D1, D3-D5 | diode 1N4007 smd | 4 | DIODE SCHOTTKY 30V 1A DO214AA | ebay options | Housing: DO-214AA / SMB |
Diode | 1N5819 / S4 - smd | 5 | Digi Options | ebay options | SOD-123 or "DO-213AB, MELF (Glass)"
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Fuse options
ID | Description | Quantity | Digikey Part Number (Description) | Other supplier | Notes |
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F1,F2 | Auto blade fuse / 1808 | 2 | ?d | ?o | ?n |
F3 | TH fuse / 0603 fuse | 1 | ?d | ?o | ?n |
F4,F5 | Is currently a "PCB-wire fuse", but will not protect the mosfets, only the rest of the PCB wires options are: 1206,24V, 2A poly fuse |
2 | ?d | ebay example | ?n |
Pin headers
ID | Description | Quantity | Digikey Part Number (Description) | Other supplier | Notes |
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2p male | txt | ? | ?d | ?o | ?n |
3p male | txt | ? | ?d | ?o | ?n |
1 row x 8p female | txt | 10 | ?d | ?o | ?n |
1 row x 2p female | txt | 12 | ?d | ?o | ?n |
2 row x 2p female | txt | 2 | ?d | ?o | ?n |
1 row x 4p female | txt | 1 | ?d | ?o | ?n
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Board assembly
I always find it easiest to solder in the smallest and lowest components first.
Once all components are soldered to the top, then it is advisable to solder in the pins on the bottom, that connects the shield to the Arduino. Because once the top-pins, jumpers and headers are soldered, it becomes very difficult to reach the solder points for the bottom pins, with the soldering iron, without also melting some of the header plastics.
Tight fit locations
74LS125 chip
I find that it is easier to solder the chip, before too many components are placed around it.
D2 diode
Place the little (round) capacitor as close to the 74LS125 chip as possible, and as far back from the D2 mounting hole as possible.
Likewise place the larger (round) capacitor as far back from the D2 mounting hole as possible.
Temperature
It might be easier to first solder the capacitors, and then the three (R3) resistors.